Room # 401

On the invitation of my friend Indro, I made the journey from Delhi to Gangtok on a November morning. Indro said he will reach from Ranchi to Siliguri and from there we will travel together. I took the morning flight to Bagdogra and reached Siliguri around 11:30 am. But there was no sign of Indro at the appointed place instead there was a WhatsApp message from him that his flight was cancelled and he will reach directly to Gangtok the following day, advising me to proceed to Gangtok.

I had no option but follow his advice, went to the taxi stand and got into a shared taxi with three other strangers. The journey from Siliguri to Gangtok is picturesque along the river but roads can be treacherous at some points. Anyway, we reached Gangtok around 4:30 in the evening and I started hunting for a hotel for the night. This turned out to be a nightmare, because there was no room available in any of the hotels that Indro had suggested I should check. The enthusiasm with which I had started hunting for hotels was now ebbing as was the sun in the distance. In hilly areas, once the Sun sets, it becomes really dark and the surroundings become deserted within a short time.

It has been almost an hour of my futile hotel search and I was feeling tired and anxious with thought of spending the wintery night on the road in a hill station. Just then I felt someone was tugging my jacket. I thought of pick-pocket and turned to hit the person but controlled myself. A dwarfish guy with a half smile on his asking “Are you looking for a hotel, Babu?” Though his appearance was not so welcoming but at that moment he was godsend. I nodded yes and he immediately picked up my rucksack and started walking, I followed him in earnest. After a few minutes of walking through winding streets and lanes that elevated us at least 100-150 feet from the street below, we stopped in front of not so attractive house with signboard that announced Paradise Hotel.  A guy seemingly with unstable mental health was sitting by the gate and having some deep animated conversation with no one in particular. We went inside.

The receptionist cum manager of the hotel recognised my guide and said, “Boltu, how are you? Not seen you for a long time. ” Boltu now smiled openly and said “I had gone to the village for my daughter’s engagement; the marriage has been fixed for April.” Then indicating me said “Harenbabu, this gentleman needs a room, so I got him here to your hotel.” The manager, Harenbabu hesitantly said, “But today, I do not have any room vacant.” I was really at the end of my tether after climbing up here with darkness engulfing the valley rapidly. I requested Harenbabu, “Please let me spend the night on this couch at your reception.” Before Harenbabu could respond, another figure from the side of the reception counter appeared and addressed Harenbabu, “Sahib, why don’t you allot him Room # 401?” Harenbabu was taken aback and admonished him resoundingly, “You shut up and don’t you know that room is not any use anymore?” Then turning to me said, “Sorry Sir, but we do not letting out that room since last year.” I said, “But why?” Harenbabu said, “Sir last year around this time, one English gentleman committed suicide in that room. And later some guests did complain of unusual happenings in that room at night. So we decided to keep it locked and let out to anyone.” Harenbabu’s honesty was applaudable but I needed a room to stay in warmth, so I said, “Listen, I do not believe in ghosts and spirits, let me have the room for tonight at least.” Reluctantly, Harenbabu took out the key of room # 401 and handed over to Boltu who picked up bag once again and climbed up the stairs followed by me and Harenbabu.

The room was decent and above all very clean despite not being used. I was relieved and tipped Boltu for his efforts and I am sure he will get his brokerage for Harenbabu also. I decided to take a walk of the Mall Road 150 feet below my hotel and try out the Momos from Rocky’s as suggested by Indro.

Momos were truly delicious; I tried the chicken, pork and mutton of which the pork ones were the best. Then I roamed around the mall and realised the night settles down much earlier in the hills than in the plains. I checked my watch, it was only 8 pm but it seemed well past 10 pm as by some magic the crowd in the mall were thinning out. I decided to go back to the hotel as weather also became chilly. There was no one at the reception, Harenbabu must have gone home or does he stay in the hotel itself? I did not know, the keys were with me only, so I went straight to my room. Even though, I had shown tons of courage earlier while accepting to stay in this room, now my enthusiasm was not so high realising that this was the only room in this floor. There are two terraces on either side of the room for clear view of the horizon but who would want to go on the terrace at such a chilly night. Also at the back of mind was the fact that someone had committed suicide in that very room and that made the surrounding a bit eerie. I took out my half read book hoping that reading it will make me fall sleep early. After some time I realised that I have almost finished the book but no sign of sleep in my eyes, may be when you are too tired, it takes time to sleep, I thought. Around this time I felt something unusual, it seemed there is someone else in the room besides me. The air in the room seemed to stand still! I got up with a start and switched on the main light in the room. There’s nobody in the room, I assured myself that it was all my fertile brain that was imagining things because of what I had heard about this room. I decided to have a sleeping pill to have a sound sleep. Thereafter, I switched off the lights in the room letting the bathroom lights on and the door slightly open so that the room does not get totally dark. I pulled up the blanket right over my head and slept.

I do not know what time it was but I was awakened by severe shaking of my body, it seemed someone was trying to wake me up and pushing me out of the bed. I could make out the main lamp in the room hanging from the roof is swaying like a pendulum but all the windows and doors are shut close, where is the air coming from? I started sweating in some unknown fear, I looked for the glass of water at the bedside table and it seemed someone has lifted it up in a shaky hand and water in it splitting on the floor below. It seemed there was some super unknown power that was roaming inside the room shaking up everything that came in its way. The power was angry that I have occupied the room that solely belongs to him. I clanged on to the bed fearing that if I get up the unknown evil power will throw me out of the room to the valley down below.  I mustered up courage and shouted, “Who are you?” The reply was a spine chilling laughter that reverberated across the valley. It unnatural, uncanny laughter that was unending, I lost consciousness.

When I came to my senses, it was bright morning with Sun shining in all its glory and brightness. However, the room was in complete disarray, it seemed there have been storm inside the room. The glass broken into pieces, the table on which it was places is upside down, the bed itself has moved to the middle of the room by some unknown force. I decided, enough of my courage and bravery for one night, I will vacate the room that very moment. In any case, Indro should be reaching by evening and he has contacts in some better hotels and it is better to spend the night in some monastery than this haunted room!

I packed my rucksack and went down to vacate the room. Harenbabu was at the reception; he smiled at me and said, “You do have a sound sleep, Sir! The whole Gangtok was woken up last night and you slept through the night without waking up even once!” I was taken aback and hesitantly asked, “Why? What happened last night?” “What? You didn’t realise there was massive earthquake that shook up the entire city of Gangtok. Not once but thrice and the last one was the severest. It was 6.4 on Richter scale!!”

Undeterred, I said with conviction, “I know but decided to stay put in the room only. But tell me who was laughing so loudly?” Harenbabu guffawed “Oh that was Nitai, the mad man you must have seen at the hotel gate who was finding it funny that people were running helter-skelter and laughing his heart out!”

I simply handed over the key to Harenbabu saying, “Can you just get my room cleaned up while I go and take a round of the surroundings? And yes I expecting my friend to join me in the evening so from tonight it will be double occupancy.”

Harenbabu said, “No worries, another room with clear view of Kanchenjunga is getting vacated today, I will shift you and your friend in that room. You come back soon then we will have breakfast together.”

The Barking

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Sukhomoy Samaddar is the English teacher in the local Bengali Senior Secondary school.  He is that character which does not evoke any curiosity; he can be in a party physically without getting noticed by the host. In short, to most people, he simply does not exist. He, however, is an excellent English teacher to those students that are eager to learn. The backbenchers neither cared about him nor did he ever try to discipline them. He is the quintessential non confronting Bengali Babu. So it was quite contrary to his character that he went to see the latest Hollywood movie that evening. He had asked a few acquaintances about the story but all of them had advised him to go and see the film himself. Now that he has seen it, he is repenting it badly. Sukhomoy can’t even sleep at night.

Sukhomoy Samaddar is a confirmed bachelor. It is not that he did not try but somehow none of the women he met wanted to become Mrs. Samaddar. So after a while, he stopped trying. He lives alone in a two bedroom house with sufficiently large garden with coconut, mango and jackfruit trees besides a rose patch that his parents had left behind for him. A housekeeping lady by the name of Sandhya, comes in the morning to clean and cook for him.

Sukhomoy Samaddar had a very bad sleep the evening he went to see the movie. The story of the movie has been playing on his mind ever since he came out the theatre, particularly the two ferocious dogs or rather the spirit of the dogs. How they avenged the murder of their master by crooked nephew is the gist of the movie.  The barking of the dogs is constantly ringing in his ears. He had kept all the doors and windows closed but somehow he had a feeling that some dogs are barking just outside his bedroom door. Sukhomoy’s fear of dogs is from the childhood when the local street dog Bholu in his playful gesture had jumped on him and he had a near heart attack. Bholu is long gone and now there is pack of 4 dogs that have terrorised him to no end. Sukhomoy at all times carries his umbrella which not only comes handy in rains and scorching sun but as a deterrent to these dogs as well.

In the morning, well after the sun shone bright, Sukhomoy, mustered enough courage to come out on his porch and checked the garden but there was no sign of any dogs anywhere. Sukhomoy sighed relief and went on to make tea for himself. As he took a sip from his cup sitting on his easy-chair in the porch, he could again hear the barking of the dog. This time very loud and clear and from somewhere close-by. Sukhomoy froze in his chair, he barking sound was coming from the garden where the coconut trees are lined. He tried to look for the dog but couldn’t make out. He got up and went inside closing the doors and windows. He decided to take the day off from school and called from his landline. He said about not feeling too well and the Principal was very concerned and advised him to take rest for as many days that he wanted. Sukhomoy has never taken any holidays in the last 20 years of his teaching job.

Sukhomoy was startled when the calling bell rang; cautiously he went to open the door. Sandhya, his housekeeper cum cook was at the door. He ushered her in and immediately closed the door. Sandhya felt a bit odd but did not say anything. She went about her job of cleaning. She was opening the windows when very uncharacteristically Sukhomoy shouted at her, “Don’t open the windows.” Sandhya was taken aback and looked at him askance. But Sukhomoy did not elaborate. Sandhya decided that the man is getting old and without a wife around is getting senile. She kept a watchful eye on him for any tell tale eccentricities.  Sukhomoy sat on the living room couch trying to concentrate on the book he has been reading. When Sandhya finished her work and asked him if anything else was required, he said no and locked the door after her departure.

Sukhomoy got engrossed in the book and lost all sense of time. The call bell rang again and so did the barking of dogs. Sukhomoy was sure that the spirits the dogs from the movie have come to take revenge from him but he couldn’t be sure as to what wrong he has done. Sukhomoy started to perspire and could feel a stinging pain in his chest. He thought he was going to die, his mouth was dry and could not even shout for help. But who will come to help him from the spirits of the dogs, he thought. He tried hard to remember if he has ever hurt any dogs in his life but other than shooing them out with his umbrella he has never even thrown a stone at any of the street dogs. Sukhomoy didn’t know what to do; he kept sitting on the couch sweating profusely.

 The bell rang again and this time accompanied by a voice “Sir, are you home? I am Keshto.” Hearing the voice, Sukhomoy felt a bit assured and got up to open the door. Keshto is local jack-of-all-trade and comes to Sukhomoy regularly for odd jobs like getting the tender coconuts or the ripe mangoes from the tree. Keshto gave him a big teethe smile with his paan stained teeth and said “Sir, did you see my mobile phone? I had come yesterday to take down the tender coconuts; maybe I have left it here by mistake.” Sukhomoy felt irritated and said, “I don’t know, you check it yourself.” Just then the barking of the dogs started again and it came from the garden. Keshto was all smiles as he said, “Sir the phone is here only” and rushed to the garden. Keshto climbed up one of the coconut trees like a monkey and came down quickly holding his mobile phone. He came to Sukhomoy and said “Now I remember, yesterday when I was plucking the tender coconuts, I had received a call and kept the phone on the tree top. Then I forgot to take it with me while climbing down.” “But how did you know the phone is on the tree over there?” asked Sukhomoy, a little perplexed. Keshto again gave a teethe smile and said, “He he Sir, the caller tune gave me the location.” Before he could elaborate further, his mobile ranged and the dogs started barking right in front of Sukhomoy. Keshto answered his call and thereafter said, “Sir this barking sound is the new caller tune in the market. This is from the soundtrack of the latest English movie. My son downloaded it yesterday only and made it my caller tune.”

Sukhomoy was speechless for a moment; he couldn’t believe that the caller tune of phone had almost given him the heart attack!!!

Then he remembered, Keshto had asked for 500 rupees yesterday and he had asked him to come this day. He took out a 500 rupees currency and gave it Keshto. “Why did you install such an odd caller tune? Nobody keeps barking sound as caller tune, just change this immediately.” Keshto agreed to change it once he gets home as his son only knows how to do.

Sukhomoy sat down on the couch and felt hungry; he had forgotten to eat his lunch.

One Night with a Stranger

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Circa 1991, much against my wishes, I was asked to handle the sales management functions in addition to the marketing function for which I was hired in the first place and a job I knew well. My geographic area of operation was north to east i.e. Punjab, Haryana, UP, Bihar, Bengal, Orissa and Assam. The product we were marketing was a bunch of ready-to-eat snacks. I had just got married but have been touring the country side for almost 20 days a month. I was sick and tired of this job and had a talk with my boss about it. He advised me to have patience for couple of months and he will do something about it, typical management style and he was the master.

The month was September when I embarked on 3 weeks tour of the eastern territories beginning with Bihar (undivided) to be followed by West Bengal and Assam. Luckily, the product being very urban, the travelling was restricted to class-I cities/ towns. I started off from Patna to Muzaffarpur to Ranchi to Jamshedpur in the first week. The dealers or wholesalers appointed by my predecessor was ill-equipped to handle food products and were never given any guidance in that area. As a result, there were huge damages and claims that needed settling. By the time I finished the first leg of the tour in Jamshedpur, I was exhausted and badly wanted to get away but the distributer there, Ashish Agarwal, a young guy just out of college insisted that I have dinner with him and catch the 10:45 pm train to Kolkata. Ashish over the last two days had become a good friend, primarily because of his amiable nature and enthusiasm to make the products a success in his territory, so I couldn’t refuse and ended up at his (family) bunglow in Kadma area. The Agarwal household was joint-family; as such it was full house with all his uncles, aunts and cousins living under one roof. The food was vegetarian but delicious and I over ate. After dinner pleasantries done, I was ready to leave for the station and Ashish volunteered to drop me at the station. We left in his Ambassador car not knowing what fate has in store for us. A short distance from his house near the water tank, the ambassador suddenly started spluttering and finally stopped. My first thought was fuel has run out but the fuel gauge showed half-tank is still available. Ashish tried his best to bring the car engine to life but it simply refused to start. I was panicking now as Tatanagar Railway Station was still quite a distance and alternative transport was not in sight. After a frantic search we finally traced an auto rickshaw with the driver soundly sleeping in the back seat. With much cajoling he agreed to drop me at the station. I bade farewell to Ashish and got into the auto rickshaw. The vehicle had clearly seen better days and now was on its last leg. Even with full throttle, it refused to move beyond 10 km speed. It finally entered the station premises at 10:43 and trudged along to the main entry gate.

I left the bewildered auto rickshaw driver with balance change of the Rs.100/- note and ran towards the platform. But I was late by the whisker as I helplessly saw the tail end of the train from Jamshedpur vanish towards Howrah……

I was at my wits end in that completely unknown place. There was not a single soul on the platform except a few sleeping figures in the distance. I walked towards the Station Master’s cabin to check the next available train. The station master was Bong and was sympathetic to my woes but was helpless. The next train was at 4:45 am and he endorsed my existing ticket for that train. He also directed me to the First Class waiting room.

The FC Waiting Room contrary to my expectation was very clean and empty. There was not a soul in that large room. I found a nice comfy single sofa and put my luggage – a suitcase and a leather office bag on the side table, bought a bottle of water from the vendor on the platform who was about shut shop for the day. I made myself comfortable in that sofa and took out the book – Dogs of War by Frederick Forsyth which I had bought from the New Delhi Railway Station. I always buy a book whenever I make a journey on train or plane, it is a habit. Most of the time, the book is finished by the time I return.

After a while, the Station Master came and introduced himself as Mr. Abani Sarkar, originally from Burdwan but posted here for last 2 years. He said he has fallen in love with place and might settle down in Jamshedpur only. He also said in case I need anything like tea or coffee, just hop in to his office any time during the night. I thanked him and requested him if he can wake me up just in case I am not already up by 4 am. He said, “Sure, I will come and wake you up and get you some tea as well to refresh you.”

Once Mr. Sarkar departed, I concentrated on the book and soon was engrossed in it in so much that did not realise than another gentleman had come inside the waiting room and sitting a away from me. The man seemed to be from the armed forces with a very thick moustache and wearing a blue tweed blazer over a grey trouser and a striped tie. The tweed blazer was a bit awkward as it was not that cold in September to wear a woollen jacket. May be the person is old enough to feel the night chill… in the insufficient light of the room, it was difficult to figure out the age.

I smiled at him and said, “Hello, you too missed the train?” He smiled back and said, “Yes, I missed it too.” Thereafter, there was an awkward silence, as I wanted to continue with my reading and it seemed rude to just going back to my book. I was in a dilemma but the gentleman only broke the silence, “You want to read your book, you may please carry on or on the other hand I can tell you a real story. By the way I am Colonel (Retd) Rudrapratap Roy.” I introduced myself and said, “Yes, a real war story would be great. Before that let me get us some coffee.” I got up to go out in search of coffee but Col Roy stopped me and took out a flask and two stainless steel glasses. He gave a hearty laugh and said, “I always carry my coffee with me, just in case…” He poured the two glasses and handed me one of them and came over to where I was sitting making himself comfortable in the other single sofa. Now that he was closer, I could make out that he is in late 50’s or early 60’s but still very fit and strong.

We both finished our coffee and he began his narrative thus….

The year was 1986 and I was posted at IMA, Dehradoon as an instructor. As part of the training, we did regular excursions to the lower Himalayas around Yamunotri and Gangotri. In one such excursion to the Gangotri region, I was leading a fresh batch of 20 cadets who had aspiration to reach great heights physically and intellectually. The young guns were physically very fit and were trekking to the higher altitudes with ease. Our trek was progressing smoothly and we had hoped to reach our summit spot at Gangotri by 1700 hours.

At around 1300 hours we stopped at clearing to have our frugal lunch and to re-energise ourselves. Thereafter, we continued our trek to the Gangotri.

Gangotri, the origin of the River Ganges and seat of the goddess Ganga, is one of the four sites in the Chota Char Dham pilgrimage circuit. The original Gangotri Temple was built by the Gurkha general Amar Singh Thapa. The river is called Bhagirathi at the source and acquires the name Ganga (the Ganges) from Devprayag onward where it meets the Alaknanda. The origin of the holy river is at Gaumukh, set in the Gangotri Glacier, and is a 19 km trek from Gangotri.

Places to visit near the Gangotri Temple

  • Bhagirath Shila is believed to be the holy rock where King Bhagirath prayed to Lord Shiva.
  • Pandava Gufa, located 1.5 km from Gangotri, is the place where the Pandavas are believed to have meditated and rested en route Kailash. Pilgrims will have to trek up to the Pandava Gufa.

In the pilgrimage journey of Chota Char Dham, Gangotri is often visited after Yamunotri (located on the western region of Garhwal Hills). Pilgrims generally make Uttarkashi as their base camp. The time taken from Uttarkashi to Gangotri temple is about 4 hours by road.

We were about an hour away from our destination, when things started to go wrong. First, one the cadet Tarkesh Kumar, tripped and sprained his ankle badly then all of a sudden, the weather took an ugly turn with black clouds engulfing the entire horizon. I wanted to speed up and reach the summit urgently but couldn’t with a limping cadet in tow. Soon enough, it started to rain and with each move forward, the intensity increased. There were no places to stop and shade ourselves from the incessant rain. There was lightening happening, practically every second and one could hear terrifying sound of cloud bursts. All of a sudden, I could hear another sound fast approaching towards us – the sound of water gushing at great speed. I shouted to the cadets to get hold of whatever they can find nearby as the flood waters minutes away from blowing us away. I was little late in my instructions as the flash flood in the hills are much ferocious compared to the plains and it swept us in a matter of seconds. I had no doubt that very soon I will be meeting my makers and as a soldier, the only thought on my mind was, “This was not the way to go. I would have liked a bullet in my heart or stepping on a landmine.” I desperately tried to catch any moorings but there were none in the path as the water at over 100 Km surface speed swept me away and few of my cadets, soon after I blacked out.

I woke up with a shake and found one scantily clothed Sadhu was shaking me to see if I am alive. I sat up with a startle and felt my throat was completely parched, I couldn’t even speak. The Sadhu held up his Kamandul (a kind of jug) and gestured me to drink from it. Hesitantly, I took a swig from it, the water was very cold but it somehow brought warmth in the body. The Sadhu spoke first and said that it is going to get dark very soon and if I am feeling good, we should hurry and trek down to the nearby temple to spend the night. I agreed and we started to move towards the temple. The temple door was closed but he pushed it open and we went inside, leaving my shoes outside. There was an idol of indeterminate deity which gave out a mystic feeling in the dim light of the earthen lamps and made the atmosphere very eerie with more shadows than lights.

The Sadhu momentarily moved away from my sight only to appear again with some fruits and offered them to me. The smell of the fresh fruits made me hungry and without much thought I devoured them in no time. The Sadhu had been looking at me intently with his deep gaze as I was eating but all the time there was a smile on his lips. He asked me where I am from and I narrated the incidences since that morning. As I was telling him, I instinctly reached into my pocket for the cigarettes but realised they are gone, probably in the flood water somewhere, I looked at wristwatch but it was gone too. No cigarette to warm you up and no way to know the time. I asked the Sadhu how long he has been living there. With a smile, he said “I don’t live here, I come and go”. “You mean you have other places to stay”, I asked hoping he will elaborate his statement. He thought for a moment and then asked me, “Do you believe in God?” My first reaction was to say NO but not to offend my saviour and host of the night I said “I really don’t know but yes I definitely do not believe that God lives inside a temple. The temples are places to exploit the people with fear or greed.” He was nodding his head in affirmation and clapped in joy, hearing me. He said, “I keep telling people the same but still they throng to the temples looking for God. You are different and I knew it when I saw you the first time.”

The Sadhu continued, “The God created different species and plants for a purpose, Humans were created as a superior species to take care of all the others but it seems there have been some manufacturing defect in them!!” He chuckled like a child. Then on a more serious note, said “The very idea of a religion is not of the God, it is the creation of humans for their own selfish agenda. God wanted the humans to take care of the nature in all its form and not destroy it. Initially, the people would worship the nature because they had realised that it is the Nature that helps them in their survival. But slowly over period of time, they, the humans became greedy, greedy of power, greedy of materialistic life, greedy of becoming overlord of their surroundings. And that brought the miseries. One set of humans started exploiting the others and situation came to such an extent that the exploited revolted and refused to accept the God they have been forced to follow till then. They felt their existing God doesn’t care about them. They looked for solace in another God and started following it, worshipping it and then fighting fellow humans in the name of their God. It became fashionable to project – My God is Better than Your God. Alas, they forgot that the God is One only.”

He stopped for a while to compose his thoughts, and then said, “You know, the people who throng to the temples do not go there because they love their God but they have an inherent fear of God in their heart perpetuated by years of exploitation by the priests. I feel ashamed of them.”

The oil lamps started flickering giving the signal that the oil it is in the verge of finishing and the lights may go off any moment. The Sadhu got up and to the other side of the deity and brought to blankets and offered them to me saying, “The lights will go off very soon, why don’t you make yourself comfortable and try to sleep. We will talk again, perhaps in the morning.” I was definitely feeling sleepy, so I took the blanket to make myself cosy and then I slept.

I woke up by sound clanking of chains and rustles of feet outside the temple. I got up and looked for the Sadhu but couldn’t find him anywhere in the still dark temple. Then with a bang the temple door opened and flash of bright sun light filtered through the open door. A posse of people in the attire of the temple priests came in and looked at me in total surprise. They seemed stupefied and speechless looking at me. I was still adjusting my eyes in the sudden bright sun light by guarding the eyes with my hand when one of the priest, presumably the head of the group, asked me, “Who are you and how did you get inside the temple?” I told him about yesterday’s flash flood in the upper regions and how as a castaway I was rescued by a Sadhu and brought to this temple. I also told him that I couldn’t find the Sadhu when I woke up this morning and that he must have left very early in the morning. There was a clear commotion amongst the congregated people and everyone was talking animatedly at once. The head priest raised his hand to silence them and said something that made my head spin violently.

“I do not know how you entered the temple. There are neither any akhara nor any hermitage anywhere in the nearby. The flash flood you are talking about happened six months ago, the same day that this temple closed for the winters. We unlocked the doors just now after six months and if you, as you are saying, had come on that day, then you have been sleeping inside for six months!” The head priest then held my hands and touched his forehead to them in a gesture of naman or obedience and said, “You perhaps, is unaware but you have been rescued by the God himself and brought here. It was his blessings that you are alive without food or water for this long.”

I had a lot of explaining to do to my commanding officer at the IMA when I finally reached there. But that is not part of the story, the Colonel said with a mysterious smile on his lips. He asked me, “So, young man what you have to say?” I said nothing but just gave him a salute.

Well, the story should have ended here but it didn’t….

I was awakened by the Station Master Mr. Abani Sarkar. He said, “Get up Mr. Bhattacharjee, the train is about to come, it has left the last station.” I got up and checked my watch, it said 4:25 am. I looked around for Col (Retd.) Rudrapratap Roy but he was nowhere to be seen. I asked Mr. Sarkar, “Where is Col Rudrapratap?” Mr. Sarkar looked at me with bewilderment and said, “There is nobody else here, Sir. You are the only passenger that utilised this First Class Waiting Room last night. I even got you a cup of coffee when you were reading your book. Thereafter checked on you on my usual beat and found you soundly sleeping, so I did not bother you.” I protested, “But there was this gentleman who introduced himself as Colonel Rudrapratap Roy. He even offered me coffee and narrated a very nice story or rather life experience too.” I remembered he was smoking a cigar and looked for the ashes on the floor. And it was there, clear tales tell sign of the existence of Col (Retd.) Rudrapratap Roy. I showed the ashes to Mr. Sarkar but he was adamant that there was nobody in the room except me. In a last ditch effort, I checked the attached bathroom but there was nobody there either. I packed-up my bag and followed Mr. Sarkar to the platform and looked around in the hope of finding the Colonel but he was nowhere to be seen.

Till date I have found no plausible answer to this escapade of mine. I refuse to believe that my mind played games with me that night because I had no external inputs like a book or incidence to trigger such narrative. Rest I leave it you to decide.

The Chocolate Cookie

Once in a month I am forced to stay bachelor when my wife is away on a week-long tour and son is anyway in hostel. I make it a point to eat out at least one such evening but diet restriction has made me very choosy. Last week was one such period and I decided to eat out on the penultimate day of my bachelor status. I ventured out to the new opened but well known chain of swanky Delicatessen in the neighborhood. I ordered for a chicken croissant and coffee and sat down at a table by the window. I was engrossed in watching the chaotic traffic and the milieu of crowd thronging the market street when my attention was drawn to a father-son duo who was contemplating whether to enter the shop or not. By their dress it was clear that this kind of place was not their regular hunting ground. After few minutes of peeking through the glass facade, they finally gathered courage and entered the shop. The kid was overwhelmed by the decor of the place and tightly gripped his father’s hand as if otherwise he might loss him.

The father in low tone practically whispered to the son, “Take a look and quickly decide what you want to buy”. It was easier said than done, the little boy with wide eye started to check the array of cakes in the glass case. It seemed, he wanted to buy all of them, they were heavenly for him. The counter sales staffs were least interested in them and very reluctantly gave away the prices of the cakes, none them being any lower than Rs.400/- for 500 gm cake.

By this time my wholehearted attention was on them, forgetting about my chicken croissant and coffee. The father was trying his best not to get intimidated by the sophistication of the shop but was clearly ill at ease in the midst of hip crowd hanging around the counter. I guessed, it must be the little kid’s birthday and he probably wanted to celebrate it with a cake just like the other kids of his age. He had his eye on a Red Velvet cake and a Black Forest cake and after much contemplation, the kid zeroed on to the Black Forest cake. The father asked for the price and was rudely told that it was for Rs.450/- (500 gm). He took out the money from his soiled trouser pockets and counted, it was only Rs.300/-. He checked other pockets but nothing came out. He probably was in the Impression that 300 bucks would be enough to buy his son’s coveted cake, having never tasted such a delicacy himself ever. He tried to bargain with the counter staff just like he would do with the grocer or the veggie vendor but the counter staffs were not interested and curtly told him to buy from elsewhere.

Having watched their saga for some time now, I suddenly had an urge to help them out. I walked over to them and offered to buy the cake for them. “If you don’t mind, let me buy you the cake.” I urged the father. But he was in no mood to take my offer and told me sharply, “Thank you but no. Please stay out of our affairs.” I pestered on and requested him to at least accept the balance money for the cake. But he was adamant and retorted, “Told you to stay away. We don’t need your money or sympathies. We will handle it ourselves.” Meanwhile the little boy was perplexed why his father not accepting the money that could buy him his Black Forest cake. He was very disappointed and his eyes were welling up with tears but remained composed like an adult.

I have never experienced such a situation ever before but realized it to be very common in a poor dis-balanced country of mine. The duo started to walk out of the shop but the father stopped at the door and came back to the counter once again. He checked the prices and selected three pastries and 100 gm of Chocolate Cookies, which was well within his limit of 300 bucks. The little boy was jubilant now and picked up the packed. His father has made his birthday special this year. They started walk out and just reaching the exit doors, the little boy came running to me and gave me a Chocolate Cookie from his meager quantity.  Even before I could say “Thank you and bless you”, the little kid had ran away to join his father on the pavement outside the shop. I saw them cross the busy street and vanish in the milieu of the crowd.

I looked at the cookie and felt emotions welling up inside me. I wanted to gift him a cake because I had the surplus means and can afford it but the little kid showed me how to share even when one doesn’t have much to share. I picked up the cookie and took a bite. It was the best Chocolate Cookie I ever had in my entire life.

A Plain Tale of Shakya

The flight from Miami reached Frankfurt early in the morning around 6 am. Shakya had ample time in hand but practically nothing to do but wait for his Delhi bound flight in the afternoon.  The terminal 1 concourse where the Lufthansa flight landed will be the same from where it will take off for Delhi. Therefore, Shakya was confined to that small area of Frankfurt airport not able to explore the other part of the airport without a transit visa.  After taking two rounds and checking all the shops, Shakya settled himself at the American Express premium lounge. He took his bath and freshened up before settling down to have breakfast of three-egg omelette with assorted cold cuts and salads. Shakya always enjoys his breakfast more than any other meal, may be because it’s the first meal of the day. In any case, he hardly gets time for lunch in his busy schedule as an Investment Banker based in Fort Lauderdale and his dinner consists of soup and bread on most days. He had married Jennifer while doing his masters at Berkeley University but the marriage lasted less than a year. After that he has decided to never get into that path and is extremely proud and happy of his freedom. He does have many girl friends, mostly happily married, so as not to get emotionally attached to Shakya.

After finishing his breakfast at leisurely pace, Shakya found a nice cosy corner and settled down in the comfortable single sofa. He picked up “Scion of Ikshvaku” by Amish, from his cabin bag, a book he has just started reading and which is basically Ramayana retold in a new light. He still believes in reading books printed on paper, no Kindle for him. Soon, he got completely engrossed in the book and lost touch with his surroundings.

“Hi, isn’t that you Shakya?” a female voice startled him. He looked at the woman who had spoken those words. She looked like a typical Bong lady, wearing western clothes and clearly uncomfortable in them. It took some time, may be a few seconds but Shakya recognised the woman, after all, one doesn’t forget his first love! Her name is Shoma and she used to be Mukherjee when Shakya had met her at their ancestral home in Burdwan. Memories came flooding as Shakya remembered his first encounter with Shoma and thereafter…

Except for his parents, all his uncles had settled down in Burdwan, a laid back town in West Bengal after the partition in 1947. The Bunglow with ample garden was a joint effort of all the brothers but Shakya’s father had decided to settle down in Delhi. The top floor of the house belonged to Shakya’s father and by default to him. His parents have been to the house only on the occasion of weddings in the family and that too for a very short duration. His mother was asthmatic and the humid weather of Bengal did not suit her at all. Shakya, being the only child, longed to meet up with his cousins as often as possible and made it a point to visit his uncles and cousins once a year at least.

It was afternoon and he was alone in his top floor room. All his cousins were either gone to college or were at work. Shakya was engrossed in the detective novel by Sharadindu Bandhopadhyay titled Byomkesh Omnibus. His concentration was broken by a shrill female voice that asking, “Who are you and what are you reading?” Shakya was about to retort with “Who the hell are you to ask and how did you come here?”, when his mejo Boudi (sis-in-law) appeared and said, “Let me introduce you two. Shakya is my Bhaithan (Bro-in-law) from Delhi and she is Shoma, my younger sister. She is now studying at Shantiniketan and is here on vacation.” Shakya remembered the tragic event about 3 months back when his mejo boudi’s parents had met with a road accident on way to Kalimpong from Darjeeling and expired. Mr. Satyashadhon Mukherjee was the General Manager at a Tea Garden in Darjeeling area and was travelling with his wife when their driver lost control of the car while saving a group of pedestrians and plunged into the deep gorge.

Shoma was almost Shakya’s age, about a year or two younger, quite good-looking and intelligent. The two bonded very well in the next few days and by the time Shakya left for Delhi, the bond had transformed into something more. Both being student of economics, they had a leaning towards left of centre politics. They discussed, Marx, Lenin, Trotsky and Naxalism to the Left Front govt in West Bengal. Shakya and Shoma even managed to go Kolkata and spend the day watching Mrinal Sen movie and generally spending the day on their own. It seemed that there was tacit approval of mejo Boudi to their friendship. The day Shakya was to return, both were sad but decided to put up a brave front. They both agreed to write to each other regularly and exchanged their addresses. The long distance friendship was well established and flourishing.

Sometime in the beginning of December that year, Shoma wrote to Shakya that her University is planning a study tour to Delhi-Jaipur-Agra and she will take out time to meet him. Shakya was euphoric with the news and kept following her up with request to confirm the dates. He made up his mind to go Jaipur and Agra on those days as Shoma would be visiting.

Finally, the day came when Shoma and her nine friends along with two teachers landed up in Delhi and checked into a hotel in Paharganj near the New Delhi Railway Station. Shakya went to see her and got introduced to the others. The girls were quite interested in him but Shakya had his eyes only on Shoma. He spent some time at the hotel in the hope to talk to Shoma in privacy but that did not happen. Also, she informed him that they would be leaving for Jaipur early next morning and from there they will proceed to Agra and then come back to Delhi again in five days. Shakya was very dejected as he could not tag along with her to all those places. To cheer him up, Shoma said, “I have taken permission to stay back for two days once the tour finishes. So don’t be so melancholy my sweetie pie”. The news of her exclusive extra days in the city did cheer him up and he promised to show up again when the team comes back to Delhi, as he left her reluctantly.

Those two days with Shoma were the most memorable day in the life of Shakya. They went to see movies, theatre and art galleries as these were not part of her itinerary with the university group. They had the famous Delhi street foods – gol-gappa & paapri-chaat of Nathu’s at Bengali Market and bhatura-chana at Sita Ram, Paharganj and also dined at fine restaurants. On the last evening of her stay, Shakya mustered up courage and proposed to her. In her reply, she simply gave him the most passionate kiss and then they made love, initially awkwardly, because it was first time for both and then with more passion and vigour till both were completely exhausted.

The love did not whither or diminish when the following year Shakya went to IIM Ahmedabad to do his MBA program having graduated in high first class and securing a score of top 50 in the CAT exams. The correspondences continued between the two but Shakya had no opportunity to visit Burdwan because of the pressures of study, all he could manage was 2-days sojourn to home in Delhi twice a year. And in the second year, Shoma also moved to London to do her masters at LSE. The letters that were exchanged twice a week became twice a month but in every one of them, both professed their undying love for each other. Shakya graduated in PGDBA with a score of 8.2 CGPA and was hired from the campus by Citibank and got posted at Chennai. He was diligent worker and soon rose to the position of AVP in a short span of 4 years.

Shoma, meanwhile, finished her masters in Economics and had returned to Kolkata to do her Phd from Jadavpur University. The choice of JU was purely economical as the cost of doing it in Europe or US was highly deterrent. Shakya in all these years have never been to Kolkata or Burdwan during the Durga Puja festivities and decided to visit Kolkata and also look up Shoma with whom now he wanted to settle down. He requested his parents also to go but his father flatly turned down the offer saying he doesn’t want to visit the chaos called Kolkata. So, Shakya having taken 10 days leave took the flight straight from Chennai to Kolkata. He had pre-booked a room for the duration of his stay at a guest house near Deshpriyo Park, which is the happening place during the festivities. He did not inform Shoma with the intention of giving her a surprise at her flat near JU.

On the Shasti day (beginning of Durga Puja), Shakya went to meet Shoma at her girls hostel just outside the campus. He had bought a diamond ring for her and it was now safely sitting in his pocket. He got off the taxi at the JU gate and asked the tea vendor for the direction to the address. It was a short walk inside the lane and he found the house without much effort.

He knocked on the door and an elderly woman came out and asked, “Who do you want to see?” Shakya asked for Shoma and the lady shouted back to someone inside to send for Shoma. All the while, the lady had been guarding the door lest Shakya get inside, there was clear sign that no male is allowed inside. After a while another female came and told the lady that Shoma is not in her room, in fact she had left early in the morning but she does not know her destination. The elderly lady in turn started to tell Shakya the news but he had already heard so he simply thanked the lady and left.

On reaching the guest house, he called up his Mejo Boudi to check if Shoma had reached Burdwan but the call was picked up by his youngest uncle. He said, “Mejda & Boudi has gone to Darjeeling the day before, and Shoma hasn’t come to Burdwan. Where are you? Are you coming home?” Shakya had no intentions of going there so he simply said “No Chhotka, not now, may be next year I will spend the Pujo with you all.” After disconnecting the phone, Shakya contemplated his next course of action. The guesthouse keeper had already informed him that in case he was to pre-vacate, the minimum charge will be for three days. So he decided to stay put for now and visit the near-by Puja Mandaps and fly down to Delhi to spend some time with his parents.

Shakya made whirlwind tour of some of the most famous Durga Pujas of Kolkata starting with Deshapriya Park, Ekdalia, Suruchi Sangha, Lake Town, Badamtala, Bose Pukur, Kumartuli, Bagbazar, College Square etc. before flying back to Delhi. His parents were pleasantly surprised at his unannounced arrival. His mother was inquisitive about his Kolkata visit but Shakya just said that the place is maddening during the puja time and his father took the right call of not going. He spent the rest of his holidays at home only barely moving out. He was outwardly very calm but there was unease inside his mind. The day before leaving for Chennai, he had called Shoma’s PG only to be informed that she was not in her room.

Shakya returned to Chennai and his work and became busy during the day but remained restless in his free time. He had called the PG every alternate day but every time the answer had been the same that Shoma was not in her room. He could not somehow make out as to where had Shoma disappeared. Finally, after almost two months, he gathered courage to check with his mejo Boudi and called her to find Shoma’s whereabouts. “Helo, mejo-boudi, how are you?” he started off with usual greetings and then asked, “Do you know where is Shoma? Hope, she is fine.” The answer made him gasp for some air as felt breathless. “Oh, you don’t know, Shoma just got married last month with Ronald. They had met in London while she was in LSE. She has moved to Houston USA where Ronald teaches in the university. I wish you could come for the wedding but everything happened so quickly that we could not inform all you guys” said mejo-boudi over the phone but Shakya had stopped listening. He was feeling very unwell and took the rest of the day off and went for long drive to Mahabalipuram. The drive on the new highway and the relentless waves of the sea somehow calmed him. But he just couldn’t believe that he has been dumped so unceremoniously by Shoma.

“Hey, what’s up?” the shrill voice of Shoma brought him back to present from his reverie. He got up and shook the extended hand of Shoma and said, “Hi, it’s been long time. How are you?” “Am good” said Shoma and sat down across Shakya. “So, where are you going? Are you travelling alone?” Shakya wanted ask so many more questions but controlled his emotions. “I am going to Bangalore and from there to Chittoor, where my daughter Priyanka is studying in Rishi Valley School.”  There was an awkward silence which none of them wanted to break. “Will you like some coffee?” Shakya finally asked and got up to get the coffee without waiting for Shoma’s answer.

Getting back with two mugs of coffee, he placed one in front of Shoma and sat down. “So tell me how’s been life with you?” Shakya asked Shoma with a purpose. Instead of answering his question she said, “You tell me first.” Shakya thought for moment then said, “Well, I am settled in Fort Lauderdale with a Green Card. Dad and Mom both passed away two years back and I have no one to fall back in India now. This is probably my last visit wherein I intend to dispose off the Delhi property.” “I am sorry to hear about uncle and aunty” Shoma said softly. Then as an afterthought asked, “Didn’t you marry? What about your family?” Shakya took a hard look at Shoma and then calmly said, “I have none. Now tell me about yourself.”

Shoma looked a little uncomfortable but composed herself and said, “I know, you have not forgiven me but to tell you the truth, I have not led a very happy life. Ronald died in a car crash when Piku (Priyanka) was just five years. I had my University job, so managed somehow but Piku in the western cultural influence was getting out of hand, so two years back I got her enrolled in Rishi Valley. Now, I am moving to Hyderabad permanently, got an offer from ISB for Professorship in Economics.” Shakya did not say anything for some time, looked at his watch and realised his flight might be announced any time soon. He looked Shoma in the eyes and said, “You are mistaken Shoma, I had forgiven you then and there only. I realized that if a person can run away without telling, then that person is not worthy of any memories.” Then changing the cue, said, “My flight will be announced any time now, must move towards the gate. What time is your flight?”

Shoma did not answer. She simply sat there and sobbed softly. Shakya came around to her side and with his kerchief and wiped her tears, then turned to go as his flight is being announced. Shoma suddenly got up and gave a tight hug to Shakya and started crying visibly. Shakya was taken aback completely as a few eyes were directly upon them. He wriggled out her hug and looking straight into her eyes said, “I told you Shoma, I had forgiven and forgotten you. Today, there is no place for you in my life. Please control yourself and get grip on your life. Goodbye.”

Without giving a second look to her, he walked away towards the Gate no. 7A to board his flight. As he sat down in his Business Class Seat, he felt light, having finally erased the memory of Shoma. He felt truly liberated, free, albeit selfishly.

Gabbar Is Back

Sujoy works in a software company in Gurgaon and stays at a short distance from his office. He usually comes home late but makes up his long working hours on weekends with his beautiful wife Shreya with enjoyable outings to film or drama or just a long drive in his beloved Skoda Yeti.

On Monday morning, he left his apartment a little earlier than usual as he had an important client meeting. As he approached the parking spot where he parks his Skoda Yeti, he was stunned to see the spot empty! His beloved Yeti is gone, stolen. He called the watchman but the guy was adamant and kept saying that nobody had come during his duty hours. Sujoy forgot all about his important client meeting and rushed to the Police Station to lodge his complaint.

It has been two days and there’s no news about his stolen Yeti. He has been commuting in taxis and visibly upset about the loss of his Yeti.

On the third day, as he is about to get into the Meru cab for going to the office, he is pleasantly surprised to see his Skoda Yeti parked in its usual spot. He rushes towards the vehicle and inspects it to see any damages but there was none. He tries the door and it opens easily and on the driver’s seat there is an envelope with his name. He opens the envelope to finds a letter addressed to him. He starts reading it –

“Dear Sir,

Three days back in the middle of the night, my mother suddenly fell ill and had to be hospitalized. I could not find any taxis at that late hour so I had to borrow your car without telling you. The keys… well that I got from the Watchman’s keyboard, the fellow was in deep slumber.

I know, you have suffered mental trauma in the last few days because of my reckless behavior. I am really very sorry for that and plead with you to forgive me. I have filled the gas as much as I had used and the key is under the mat.

Sir, you have unknowingly helped me at a time when I was in distress and I shall remember that all my life. I can’t express my gratitude in words and as a token of my penance I have left two tickets of the late night show of the Hindi film Gabbar is Back in the envelope for you. Hope you will pardon me and accept this token gift. Once again I am really very sorry to cause you so much trouble, please consider me as your younger brother and forgive me.

Yours truly

Rajinder”

Sujoy was completely taken aback by this turn of events and rushed back to his apartment to tell Shreya what has happened. Shreya was surprised too but the couple decided to forgive the unknown Rajinder and watch the movie later that night.

Sujoy & Shreya came back late that night after enjoying the film Gabbar is Back and was shocked to see the shattered door lock of their apartment. As they entered, everything in the house was displaced, the music system in the living room, the televisions in the bedrooms, the ornaments and cash in the locker of Godrej almirah… all are gone.

There was a note stuck in the dressing table mirror, it said, “Hope you enjoyed the movie. By the way, Gabbar is Back”.

Youthful Escapade

Many moons ago, in my exuberant youth I discovered a place called Jhajha in Bihar, while travelling with my cousin by train to Burdwan. It was dusk when our train reached the Jhajha station which had a 2 minute halt there.  I saw a romantic laid-back place at the backdrop of a rising hillock where people were moving about in their own leisurely pace. I marked the place in my memory to come back and explore later.

Back in Delhi, I narrated the beauty of the place to my friend Gora who happened to be like minded and we decided to venture to the place at the first opportunity. Opportunity in terms of money and time came once my internship with the advertising agency got over and I had some money saved. We bought two tickets of Purva Express to Jhajha Junction. The clerk at the counter gave us an odd look and asked twice for confirmation of our destination.

On the appointed day we boarded the Purva Express with lot of anticipation. The journey was ordinary, event less and we reached Jhajha Junction the following day around 3pm, the train was on time. We got down and went to explore the town and look for a hotel to stay. We hailed a rickshaw and asked him to take us to a hotel. The rickshaw puller looked at us and said “Panch rupaiya lagega babu” meaning it will cost us Rs.5/-. We agreed and sat on his rickshaw with our two small bags. After about 3-4 minutes he stopped in front of a dhaba and announced that the destination has been reached. We looked around and couldn’t find any hotel except the thatched roof of a very unhygienic eating place. On questioning, he said that it was the best hotel in the town of Jhajha! When we explained to him that we needed a place to stay, he said that the only place to stay is the Dak Bunglow as there are no other hotels in Jhajha. We requested him to take us there which he obliged. While riding through the town, we realized, Jhajha was perhaps the most backward place that we have ever ventured till then. It had only one metaled road that started from the railway station, circled the town and ended where it started, the station! The Dak Bunglow happened to be at the opposite end of the station.

After much searching for the caretaker, we found him sleeping in his hut at the corner of the plot.  We requested him to let us stay overnight, but he was adamant that he cannot let us in without proper permission from Patna. No amount of cajoling or bribe could change his mind. We had no option but to go back to the station and perhaps spend the night at the platform only. 

We had two options, one to go back to Patna or proceed to Kolkata. Patna had the advantage of Gora’s sister residing there but as luck would have it there was no down train to Patna before morning. The ticket counter guy said that Toofan Express from Delhi is running late and is expected in about 30 minutes. We asked for two first class tickets not wanting to jostle with the crowd in any other carriage. He said that he can only issue an ordinary ticket and that we can get the desired ticket from the TC in the train. We bought the tickets and waited for the train. The Toofan Express, quite contrary to its name chugged into the station after one hour and we got into the first class carriage which was surprisingly empty barring a few births. We found ourselves a coupe and settled down. After a while, the TC came and asked for our tickets. We told him that we have ordinary tickets and would like to buy the first class tickets upto Howrah. He was very upset that we have boarded the first class carriage with ordinary tickets but agreed to arrange the tickets at the next junction station, Jasidih. We bought tea and pakodas from the vendor and made ourselves comfortable. Jasidih came and went off, but there was no sign of the TC, we were worried that if some other TC comes, he might offload us at the next station. We found him chatting with his colleagues in the next coach. When we asked him for the upgraded tickets, he said, “I will get you the tickets from Asansol”.

By the time, we finally reached Asansol, it was well past 7 in the evening and from there to Howrah even a super-fast train takes minimum 3-4 hours. We asked the checker again for our tickets. This time he said, “Come with me, I will get you the tickets from the counter”. Gora went with him while I stayed back. After about 15 minutes Gora came back and said, “This TC is really stupid, the counter guy told him to issue us the tickets on his own but it seems he does not have the challan book with him.” As we were talking, the TC came and announced that he will give us the ticket when we get down at Howrah.

The train was in no hurry to take us to Howrah on time and stayed put for some more time at Asansol station, apparently giving way to other trains that were running on time and perhaps more important in the railway’s scheme of things. We bought more snacks and ate as not sure what time we would reach our destination.

It was 9:30 pm when the train reached Burdwan junction, still 2:30 hours at least away from Howrah. We were really worried whether, we will be able check in to a hotel in Calcutta (Kolkata) at midnight. My aunt’s house is in Burdwan and I have been there a number of times, knew the route to the house from the station. I suggested to Gora that we get down at Burdwan and stay overnight at my Aunt’s place and proceed to Kolkata in the morning. He instantly agreed and we got down at Burdwan. The TC arrived immediately and demanded to know why we have got down there. We explained that as the train was running late, will not reach Kolkata before midnight, making it impossible for us to hunt for a hotel. Therefore, we are getting down to stay overnight at my aunt’s place. We offered him to pay for the first class tickets provided he issued us the tickets then and there. He was obviously unable to do so and felt very frustrated and yelled at us to get lost. We laughed at him and made our way to my aunt’s house.

My aunt and cousins were both surprised and happy to see us and insisted that we have dinner. The household had already finished their dinner but my bhabi made some simple dinner for us. Post dinner it was time for adda which continued till very late and everyone was amused by our adventure and made fun of our romantic nature. One of my cousin works with Eastern Railways and I requested him to arrange for our return tickets which he promised to do so in the morning.

In the morning after breakfast we went to the station with my cousin to book our return journey tickets. We wanted to return at the earliest opportunity but could get the reservation in Rajdhani from Howrah after 5 days only. We decided to stay for a day in Burdwan only as it would have rude to turn down the request of my aunt and cousins. We spent the day roaming around the town, checked out the Bijoy Toran, Burdwan University where my cousin was doing her Phd. We tried out Sitabhog with Mihidana, a famous sweet delicacy of Burdwan and variety of cutlets.

Next day early morning, we bid our goodbyes and left for Kolkata to avoid the office goers’ rush in the Local EMU train. We had no intention of meeting our relatives in the city because of the paucity of time, instead, as suggested by my cousin, we would check in to YMCA hostel at Chowringhee or Esplanade. On reaching Howrah, we came out and crossed the Ganges in the ferry service, again advised by my cousin, keeping in mind the mad rush and traffic jam on Howrah Bridge. We were dropped off just behind the All India Radio building and from there we took a taxi for the Metro Cinema, Esplanade. The YMCA is situated above the Metro cinema where we found ourselves a room shared by two more persons, it was a four bedded room. Our plan was to stay for a night and take the early morning bus to Digha, a tourist spot on the coast of Bay of Bengal, so it did not matter. We freshened up and went out to get some grub which was available in abundance in the city. We have heard about Shabbir’s mutton rezala, a mutton dish that was their specialty and very famous across the state. The place was quite full but managed to find a place to sit. We ordered chicken biryani and mutton rezala, two portions. The biryani served was unique because it had boiled potatoes and egg besides the mutton pieces but very delicious as was the mutton rezala. Much later I got to know that the biryanis in Kolkata are always served with potato and egg and is christened as Kolkata Biryani.

The Metro cinema was houseful for all shows that day putting an end to our dream of watching a movie in Kolkata. In the evening we walked down to the Maidan and had Phuchka (Golgappa) and Aloo-Kabli, a speciality snack of Kolkata made of boiled potato and Mattar. We also saw the Victoria Memorial, The East Bengal Football Club (being fan of that team), the Lal Bazaar Police Station and the Writer’s Building before returning to our night shelter. We also purchased our bus tickets to Digha with scheduled departure at 5 am the following day. Back at the YMCA, we had a quick dinner of Egg Curry with rice and requested the reception to wake us up at 4 am. We paid up for our stay and other consumables.

We were up well before 4 am and ready to move out in half hour. It was difficult to get a conveyance at that hour so we decided to walk the short distance to Esplanade Bus stand from where the buses to Digha plies. The journey to Digha was without any incidence or adventure. The bus stopped at a roadside hotel at Kolaghat for refreshment. We decided to have egg n bread and downed it with hot tea, the safest option at such places. There was usual heavy traffic once we reached Contai but after that traffic was light right upto Digha. Reaching Digha, we realized we have come at a wrong time of the year, the heat was scorching and the place was practically deserted. We checked in West Bengal Tourism Guest House.

After freshening up, went to the beach precisely for 15 minutes and rushed back to the guest house. The weather was unbearable; it was hot and extremely humid. We ordered beers to quench our thirst and had chicken n rice for lunch. And more beers, a total of  4 (650 ml) bottles each. Then we slept till 6 in the evening.

Getting up we went to the beach once again and this time it was high tide, the Bay of Bengal furiously came rushing at us with all its might only to subside at our feat. It was first experience of seeing the sea for both of us and it seemed like we were in a trance watching the vastness of the ocean. Wherever you look it was but water only. We spent over an hour walking on the beach and chitchatting. The place was unusually quiet with very few tourists around and even fewer locals. When it became dark and the water level started to reach our knees, we decided to head back to the guest house. We washed up the salts that had formed on our feet and ordered beer and some snacks in our room. This time we each finished off 6 bottles in a matter of  2 hours. The manager knocked on our door to check if we would like to have dinner as the kitchen would close down for the day soon. There was no room service available, so we had to go over to the dining room for dinner which was simple dal, rice, aloo bhaja and egg curry.

Next day, after breakfast we checked out and headed for the bus stand to return to Kolkata. The journey back was again without any events. The bus stopped at the same hotel but we only took the tea and settled down in our seats. We reached Kolkata around 8 in the evening and once again headed to the YMCA. This time we were lucky to get a room to ourselves on the top floor. It was the only guest room on the floor, rest of the floor was terrace (except for a few staff rooms at the other end) from where one can watch the Esplanade skyline right up to the Victoria Memorial. It was beautiful. 

After settling ourselves in the room and freshening up, we decided to go out to the Park Street and have some Mughlai Food. We were hungry as we had skipped our lunch. We devoured the Biryani and mutton Roghanjosh at Aminia, one of the best foods till date. After dinner we roamed around the Park Street area which seemed like a fair ground with milling crowds, some in a rush to reach home and others on their evening out. Even the New Market stalls were all open at that late hour and doing brisk business. We were tired not so much for the bus journey but the humid weather having sipped out all our energies, so came back to the hostel. The cold water bath did wonders to our souls and made us sleepy. We kept the main door to the terrace open but locked the wire-mesh door so that cool breeze from the Maidan could fill the room. This was the last night of our adventurous trip; next day evening was our train back to Delhi.

There were nicely tucked mosquito nets in each bed to prevent mosquito bites and make us sleep soundly. In Delhi, we never needed such arrangements and as such have never slept under the nets. It was a novel experience for both. We locked the main entry door, kept the bathroom door slightly open to let the light filter in to work as night lamp and got into our respective beds. My bed was to the terrace side and Gora’s towards the bathroom side. Thereafter we cracked a few jokes and before we knew both had dozed off into deep slumber.

I do not know what time it was but I woke up with a startle as I heard Gora calling my name. I asked him, “What happened?” but there was no reply, only his snoring reached my ears. I looked at his bed and in the light emanating from the bathroom could make out that he was in deep slumber. I dismissed the idea that I had heard my name being called as my dream and turned towards the terrace side to sleep again.

And froze! I lost all my sense and sensibilities, for there was someone standing right outside the wire-mesh door and looking in the room. I tried to shout but no sound came out, my voice was gone too!!

I do not know how long it was but after a while, I realised that the figure outside is not moving at all, it was still as wood. With much effort I regained my composer and called out to Gora. The figure outside the door still did not stir at all, but Gora woke up and asked why I have woken him up. I muttered under my breath, “Look outside the door, there’s someone standing outside.” He got up immediately hearing me and looked at the door pointed out by me. For a moment he too was dumbstruck but quick to regain his composer and switched on the terrace light. And then burst out laughing! I too started laughing.

The main wooden door to the terrace opened outside on to the terrace and it seems the breeze from maidan has made some hotel linen to fall awkwardly on the open door which in the dim light was giving the impression that someone is lurking outside our door. Gora yanked the linen and threw it on the terrace. And we slept through the rest of the night peacefully. But the incidence remained embedded in our memories and Gora even today pulls my leg because of it.

In the morning, we had our brunch, checked out and headed for the Howrah Station to catch our train to Delhi. Our youthful, romantic escapades had finally ended.

Amritsar

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Amritsar is home to the Harmandir Sahib (commonly known as the Golden Temple), the spiritual and cultural centre for the Sikh religion. This important Sikh shrine attracts more visitors than the Taj Mahal with more than 100,000 visitors on weekdays alone and is the most popular destination for non-resident Indians (NRI) in the whole of India. The city also houses the Akal Takht, the highest seat of earthly authority of the Khalsa, and the committee responsible for the upkeep of Gurdwaras.

The city is situated 220 km northwest of state capital Chandigarh. It is near Pakistan, with the Wagah Border being only 30 km away. The nearest city is Lahore, the second largest city in Pakistan, located 60 km to the west.

The Ramtirth temple situated at Amritsar is believed to be the Ashram site of Maharishi Valmiki, the writer of Ramayana. According to the legend Sita gave birth to Luv and Kush, sons of lord Rama at Ramtirth ashram. Nearby cities to Amritsar, Lahore and Kasoor were said to be founded by Luv and Kush, respectively. During Ashvamedha Yagna by Lord Rama, Luv and Kush captured the ritual horse and tied lord Hanuman to a tree near to today’s Durgiana Temple. During Navratra festivities it is considered to be auspicious to visit that temple and some people dress their little sons as Langoor and pray at temple daily during nine days as gratitude towards fulfilment of their wish.

The main commercial activities of Amritsar include tourism, carpets and fabrics, farm produce, handicrafts, service trades, and light engineering. The city is known for its rich cuisine and culture and for the Jallianwala Bagh massacre in 1919 under British Rule. Amritsar is home to Central Khalsa Orphanage, which was once home to Udham Singh, a prominent figure in the Indian independence movement. Amritsar has been chosen as one of the heritage cities for HRIDAY – Heritage City Development and Augmentation Yojana scheme of Government of India.

We have created a bucket list of places where we would like to visit and Amritsar was one of them. It got postponed many times because of non-availability of train tickets and bad road conditions of the 500 km distance from Delhi.

However, this time with the long weekend of 24th – 27th March 2016 due to HOLI and Good Friday, we decided to take the plunge and drive along as the highway has improved considerably with six lane carriageways on most part of the journey. Our original plan was to start on 24th morning around 4:30/ 5:00 am and reach Amritsar by 12:30/ 1:00 pm but Basu’s, our travel partners were reluctant to drive through Haryana on the HOLI day fearing fracas on the way. So they went a day ahead to Ludhiana and stayed overnight at Keys Hotel. We started as planned on 24th morning around 5:30 am with our first destination being Ludhiana to catch up with Basu’s. Contrary to the expectation of chaotic traffic and HOLI hooligans on the road, we found the roads to be traffic smooth and we crossed Murthal around 6:45 am, too early to have Parantha Breakfast!! There were no signs of any one playing HOLI, the festival of colours anywhere on the entire stretch of the NH 1 (NH 44) till we reached Ludhiana city at 9:30 am. The people were playing among themselves not bothering general public.

We wanted to have our breakfast at Rishi Vegetarian Dhaba which had 4/5 rating in Zomato, moreover it was closer to the highway so one need not venture deeper in to the city. But as luck would have it, the place was closed owing to the festival of colour – HOLI. Basu’s suggested that we have our breakfast at the Keys Hotel where they stayed overnight and then we can proceed to Amritsar together. Google Map located the place and the direction thereof but it didn’t know that the municipal corporation of Ludhiana has closed the road only a day before making our 6 km journey to hotel most adventurous through some very narrow lanes, railway tracks and football grounds. The buffet breakfast at the Keys hotel priced at Rs.200/- per person was more than decent with a spread of fresh fruits, juices and lassi, sausages, eggs, puri-sabji besides south Indian spread.

An hour’s break and a strong coffee did wonders to our spirits. Ayush, my son had wished to drive the second leg of the journey so I offered him the car keys but he just smiled and said that the nice breakfast is making him sleepy and got into the back seat comfortably. I checked the route to the highway from the hotel reception and started off for Amritsar.

The Ludhiana-Amritsar highway is nowhere near the highway that we had travelled upto now. The six-lane became four and then two. And then, in the entire route, every few kilometres, there were Langars by the Sikh Community where they were serving Sharbats. This further created massive traffic confusion and chaos. It took us over 3 hours to reach our destination which otherwise would have been completed in two hours.

We checked into Hyatt Amritsar where we had pre-booked our stay. The hotel was nice and comfortable and the staff very courteous too. After freshening up, we decided to visit the famous Kesar da Dhaba for lunch.

In my last visit to Kesar da Dhaba, during the height of insurgency in Punjab, we had a simple and quick dinner of Dal and Tandoori Roti served on the high tables laid out in the lane itself. The place has changed with times, now they have two separate areas for sitting, both air-conditioned and both filled with hungry souls. Basu’s reached the place first and using their charm managed to wriggle out space for six hungry souls. We ordered thalis of different combinations along with lassi and phirni. The food is still very good but the taste of dal that I had many moons ago was somehow missing. The lassi and phirni were one the best that I ever had. I can go back there just for these two only.

After the tummy filling lunch I desperately wanted to take a nap! Remember, I got up at 4 am and had driven over 500 km!! However, we live in a democracy so with majority decision went for shopping of garments that are the speciality in these parts. We also bought pappads, vadis and aam pappad!!!

After shopping, we decided to visit Jallianwala Bagh to pay homage to the martyrs.

Jallianwala Bagh is a public garden and houses a memorial of national importance, established in 1951 by the Government of India, to commemorate the massacre of peaceful celebrators including unarmed women and children by British occupying forces, on the occasion of the Punjabi New Year on April 13, 1919. Official sources identified 379 fatalities and estimated about 1100 wounded, however, Civil Surgeon Dr. Smith indicated that there were 1526 casualties. The true figures of fatalities are unknown, but are likely to be many times higher than the official figure of 379. The 6.5-acre garden site of the massacre is located in the vicinity of Golden Temple complex. The memorial is managed by the Jallianwala Bagh National Memorial Trust, which was established as per the Jallianwala Bagh National Memorial Act passed by the Government of India in 1951.

We were there in the evening of a holiday and it was crowded with both tourists as well as locals who thronged the garden with family and friends. The elderly people who were aware of the significance of the place were in a sombre mood while the kids were playing in the lawns with abandon not knowing the harrowing tales of April 13, 1919!! We saw the Well where hundreds of people had jumped to their deaths trying to avoid the bullets. We saw the bullet marks on the walls and for a moment could visualise the helplessness of the victims on that fateful day. In my thoughts, I prayed for the departed and am sure the others did too.

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We wanted to visit the Golden Temple too but were dissuaded by the crowd that thronged the street going towards the temple and came back to the hotel. Later in the evening, Deepika along with Basu’s went to Golden Temple in the coach service provided by the hotel. Ayush and I decided for a pre-dinner nap.

Next day we had planned for the visit to the Atari-Wagah Border to witness the Parade. Santanu Basu had informed me earlier that we need to have a Pass to watch the Parade at Wagah Border and I had requested my classmate from school Gr. Captain S Choudhury who had recently opted for retirement from the services. His contact in Amritsar called me up and confirmed that our name has been sent and it is confirmed. I asked him by what time we should reach the border to which he was not certain and said by 5-5:30 pm. This was a grave blunder the gentleman committed as we took it literally and started around 3:30 pm for the 40 km journey not knowing the rush that would greet us as we get closer to the point.

The system of giving out Passes has been discontinued by the BSF/ Army and instead they take out a list every day at 3 pm with the names of the visitors (VIP) who gets to sit and watch the parade from close quarters. My name (+5) as Gr. Captain from Air Force (Huh!!) was listed as Number 1 in the list but ironically, we could not reach the spot on time!!! There were thousands of people on foot and hundreds of cars that kept trying to gate crash but the sentinels of BSF were very firm and closed the gate at 4:30 pm. I tried reasoning with them but those guys only follow orders. The senior person there was sympathetic to me but said he cannot help me as there were five more check points ahead and all of them have been shut for the day. He also informed that the Parade is between 5 – 5:30 pm every day.  We had no option but to leave very dejected.

To get out of our disappointment of Wagah, we decided to have some nice non-vegetarian authentic Punjabi food. My nephew sent us few options and we decided to go for Makhan Fish & Chicken Corner at Majitha Road, Amritsar. The place was full and there was a sizeable population waiting to get in at the first opportunity. Deepika and Sangeeta used their charm and managed to find us a table after a short waiting time. As suggested by Babai, my foodie nephew, we tried their signature dishes Amritsari Fish Tikka and Tandoori Chicken along with Butter Paneer, Dal and assorted bread. The fish and the chicken were fresh and no doubt one the best preparations we ever had, the vegetarian Paneer and Dal were average though. In my opinion, the place is “visit again variety” for their signature dishes.

In the morning, before our misadventure of Wagah, we went to the Golden Temple. The place was teeming with people even on a working day and there were thousands of people lined up to go inside Harmandir Sahib. Not being very religious, I declined to get into the queue and paid my respects from the outside only. We did the Parikrama of the Sarovar and saw the Akal Takht, picked up packed Prashad of Pinni and clicked photos for memory.

One thing that struck me was the cleanliness of the temple complex; all around Kar Sewaks with brooms are cleaning away even smallest specks of dust. However, once you come out of the temple into the streets of Amritsar, it is dirt everywhere. I wonder why these Kar Sewaks can’t extend their noble services to the whole city of Amritsar and make it an example of real Sewa!!

On the last day, before starting for Delhi, Deepika and Basu’s again went to the Golden Temple for one last darshan at 7:30 am promising to return for the breakfast. Ayush and I took our baths and then packed our bags and were ready for breakfast and checkout before noon. We were in for some real waiting as the Golden Temple team made their appearance around 11:30 am, well past the breakfast hour at the hotel. We checked out from the hotel and went to the Alpha One Mall next to the hotel for a quick brunch before setting off for Delhi. The Bharawan or the Brothers Dhaba has an outlet there and we decided to try it out. I ordered Amritsari Kulcha Thali and Lassi. The Thali consisted of 2 Amritsari Kulchas plus a bowl of Chana, both tasted very good but the Lassi was quite disappointing specially after experiencing the Kesar’s offering. Others gave the rating of average for whatever dishes they had ordered. There was happy hour for beer but we avoided it keeping in mind the long drive ahead of us.

The return journey was without any events except getting into a massive traffic jam some 50 km from Amritsar where we got stuck for good one and a half hours. We reached home around 11 pm to the warm welcome of Rolf Adenauer Bhattacharya.

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A Tale of Pilgrimage: Dwarkadhish & Somnath

It was the grand finale of the family wedding ceremonies. There had been four weddings in the family in last ten months. Deepika & I were sitting with my Bro-in-law and Bhabis literally exhausted from the food, music and dances that were still in abundances wherever you look! We were discussing how to unwind from the onslaught of all the marriages in the family when Seema Bhabi suggested we go for a pilgrimage to Dwarkadhish and Somnath in Gujarat. The idea clicked with my Alka Bhabi & Ravi Bhaiya. Deepika seemed keen too but wanted my reaction knowing that I stay miles away from all sorts of religious/ ritualistic places. I agreed, not from the pilgrimage point but for the opportunity of photography, my other passion.

Seema Bhabi has been literally globetrotting for some time (probably to heal her wounds of loosing Napoleon Bhaiya to the dreaded cancer), has not only been gathering artefacts but a huge repertoire of knowledge of the places she had visited and of the places she intends to visit.  She narrated some of the stories behind the Dwarkadhish and Somnath temples and I was quite impressed with her knowledge and thought she might come handy as a guide at ground zero!

My parents have been reasonably religious as well as ritualistic as any normal Bengali. However, neither did they go overboard in appeasing their God(s) nor did they force down the ritualistic norms on their children. They left the choice of doing the rituals of daily Puja to us. As a result I have turned out to be the least religious let alone ritualistic person amongst my siblings. I do not remember when I prayed last to any God. That does not mean I am non-religious or atheist.  I do believe in One Supreme Power and shall continue to keep my faith till such time the science proves otherwise.  I simply do not believe that God or the Almighty resides in a particular place (read Mandir) or that S/He will annihilate me if I do not pray to her/him or fail to visit her /him at the so-called abodes to pay my obeisance.

Given such beliefs, I realised that strangely enough I have been to some of the most coveted (by Hindus) temples in my life. And not just that, I have been ushered in the sanctum sanctorum of these temples or have witnessed some rituals for which many would go round the earth to be present there. I have been to the garva griha at Guruvayur Temple & the Kamakhya Temple. I have witnessed the Milk Bath of the Vishwanath Lingam standing inside the sanctum sanctorum. I offered Puja at the Vaishno Devi all by myself without any public presence. All these had happened when I have had no intentions or desire to do so, may be the Supreme One wanted to see me!

It was decided that 4 of us, Deepika, myself, Ravi Bhaiya & Alka Bhabi will take the AI flight from Delhi-Mumbai-Jamnagar and Seema Bhabi would join us at Mumbai. We had pre-booked our stay at Dwarka and Somnath after checking a few options and hoped the hotels will be decent.

February 5, 2016

Our AI flight was scheduled for 0800 hours departure and was on time and reached Mumbai around 1015 hours. No sooner that I activated my mobile phone that I received a message from AI that the connecting flight to Jamnagar has been rescheduled at 1330 hours from the original time of 1130 hours. We let out a collective cry of frustration. Thankfully, the new terminal T2 at Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is just like Mall with shopping as well as food options.

We spotted Seema Bhabi after our security check and then settled down for a cup of coffee at the Baker’s Street food joint inside the terminal. I ordered for Bada Pao which I have never tasted till then even though I had been to Mumbai many times.

We boarded the Jamnagar flight around 1310 hours and it took off around 1345hours. We reached Jamnagar at 1500 hours, almost 2 hours late, decided to have quick lunch and do some shopping (the ladies can’t help but shop). The hotel where our driver took us was quite decent but said the main kitchen has closed for the shift and we can only have Chinese food. I think we can get better Chinese in the streets of Delhi!!!

We wanted to visit Marine Park which is around 80-90 km from Jamnagar on way to Dwarka but was informed that it would close by the time we reach, so we carried on to Dwarka. I was happy to click the setting Sun on the way to Dwarka. I realized that in Gujarat, the roads are generally quite smooth and nice for driving. There are not many potholes like in UP, Bihar and Bengal that constantly greets you, the moment you move on to the State Highway from National Highway. We reached Dwarka around 1900 hours and were informed that Dwarkadhish Temple is open till 2130 hours. We decided to freshen up quickly and visit the temple that evening itself.

The Dwarkadhish temple, also known as the Jagat Mandir is a Hindu temple dedicated to the Lord Krishna, who is worshipped here by the name Dwarkadhish, or ‘King of Dwarka’. The main shrine of the 5-storied building, supported by 72 pillars, is known as Jagat Mandir or Nija Mandir; archaeological findings suggest it to be more 2500+ years old. Temple was enlarged in the 15th- 16th century. The Dwarkadhish Temple is a Pushtimarg temple hence it follows the guidelines and rituals created by Shree Vallabhacharya and Shree Vitheleshnathji.

 

According to tradition, the original temple was believed to have been built by Krishna’s grandson, Vajranabha, over the hari-griha (Lord Krishna’s residential place). The temple became part of the Char Dham pilgrimage considered sacred by Hindus in India, after Adi Shankaracharya, the 8th century Hindu theologian and philosopher, visited the shrine. The three others being Rameswaram, Badrinath and Jagannath Dham at Puri. Even today a memorial within the temple is dedicated to his visit. Dwarakadhish is the 108th Divya Desam of Lord Vishnu on the subcontinent, glorified in the Divya Prabandha sacred texts.  

To my utter dismay, I found that I am not allowed to take my camera, phone and any leather items such as purse and belt inside the temple. No logic was provided for banning the first two items. I know lots of religious places, it is prohibited to photograph inside the temple where the idol rests but one can shoot outside. But here one cannot even take it within the temple perimeter, huh!!

Anyways, since I have come this long, decided to meet Dwarkadhish and went along with the others. The Pandit or the Guide or the Panda immediately identified as the fat one who could be coaxed into shelling out handsomely, little knowing that we are seasoned professional in the game. He took us around the temple explaining each of the temples which was mix of myth and history but narrated with high conviction. From my previous experience, I had carried a bunch of 10 Rupees currency note and that came handy for Daan Patras. After the parikrama of the mandir, he took us to the Gomti Ghat where Krishna met his childhood friend Sudama. Here, I have a confusion, I know the river Gomti flows through Lucknow, is it the same Gomti River or different one with same name?? I would appreciate if someone can elicit on the subject.

February 6, 2016

We had our breakfast and decided to see the other religious attractions in Dwarka before going to Bet Dwarka. Our first visit was to Rukmini Devi Temple, about 2 km away from Dwarkadhish Temple. Rukmini is the most beloved wife of Krishna whom he had eloped from the Swayambar ceremony. So why is her temple separate from the Dwarkadhish? Why is she not with her beloved husband? The story is interesting …

Once Krishna along with Rukmini visited the Ashram of Sage Durbasha and requested him to visit Dwarka. Sage Durbasha agreed but put a clause that the Rath or the Chariot cannot be pulled by anyone who cannot speak. There was no one else but Krishna and Rukmini who took it upon themselves to pull the chariot with Rishi Durbasha and his disciples sitting on it. After covering some distance, Rukmini felt very thirsty, so Krishna offered her water. This incident angered Sage Durbasha who was known to be very hot tempered. He said to Krishna, “You offered water to your wife without seeking permission from the Brahmin sitting in the chariot. Now you will be separated from her for all times come.” Therefore, to honor the words of the great sage, the two temples are separated by a distance of 2 km.

I did not go inside the temple and decided to take some candid shots with my camera.

Our next destination Bet Dwarka or Shankhodhar is an inhabited island at mouth of Gulf of Kutch situated 3 km off the coast of Okha, Gujarat, India. The island is measured northwest to southeast in 13 km with an average 4 km in east-west direction. It is a strip of sand and stone situated 30 km north of Dwarka.

Bet Dwarka is considered the part of the ancient city in Indian epic literature Dvārakā found in Mahabharata and Skanda Purana. Scholars suggest that Antardvipa in Sabha Parva of Mahabharata can be identified as Bet Dwarka as Yadava of Dwarka are said to travel to it by boats. It derived its name Shankhodhar as the island is a large source of conch shells (Shankh). Archaeological remains found under the sea suggest the existence of settlement during Late Harappan period of Indus Valley Civilization or immediately after it. It can be reliably dated to times of Maurya Empire. It was a part of Okha Mandal or Kushdwip area. Dwarka is mentioned in the copper inscription dated 574 AD of Simhaditya, the minister of Vallabhi under Maitraka. He was the son of Varahdas, the king of Dwarka.

The island, along with Okhamandal region, was under Gaekwad of Baroda State. During Indian rebellion of 1857, the Vaghers captured the region in 1857. Later by joint offensive of British, Gaekwad and other princely states troops ousted the rebels and recaptured the region in 1859.

After independence of India in 1947, it was integrated in Saurashtra State. Later Saurashtra merged with Bombay State under state reorganization scheme. When Gujarat was created from bifurcation of Bombay State, Bet Dwarka came under Jamnagar district of Gujarat. Devbhoomi Dwarka district was created from Jamnagar district in 2013 so it became part of it.

Dhwarkadhish Temple and Shri Keshavraiji Temple are major temples of Krishna. Hanuman Dandi and Vaishnav Mahaprabhu Bethak are also pilgrimage places. Sidi Bawa Peer Dargah, Haji Kirmai Dargah and Gurdwara are also situated here. A small temple of Abhyay mata which is situated south side of this island.

Bet Dwarka can be reached by ferry service from Okha. The first sea bridge of Gujarat is proposed between Okha and Bet Dwarka and is estimated to cost 400 crore. The construction work is expected to start soon.

We hired a private boat along with another family of five people so that we could enjoy the short sea journey. The port or the ghat was full of Seagulls that would crowd around the boats for food and gave us company for quite a distance.

Now, here, we were little disappointed because the way Seema Bhabi had narrated the story of the discovery of underwater city of Dwarka that we thought we would be able to see parts of that if not the full. But nothing of the sort was in view. Apparently, the discovered underwater ruins are some 12-13 km away from the coast in the sea and 60-80 meters deep inside. One would need diving gear to explore that city if at all permission is given.

The Dwarkadhish temple here is quite similar to the earlier one, only much smaller and much dilapidated condition. Again, no photography was allowed, so we took turns to go check out the temple and its idols. Since, we had a private boat that was to pick us up in half hour; we did not explore the other religious places of the island but returned to the Ghat for return journey.

Back in the mainland, we decided to visit Nageshvara Jyotirlinga, one of the 12 Jyotirlinga shrines mentioned in the Shiva Purana. Nageshvara is believed to be the first such shrine.

According to Shiv Mahapuraan, Brahma (The Creator) and Vishnu (The Preserver) once had an argument as to which of them was supreme. To test them, Shiva pierced the three worlds as an immeasurable pillar of light, the Jyotirlinga. Vishnu and Brahma parted company to determine the extent of each end of the pillar. Brahma, who had set off upward, lied that he had discovered the upper end of the pillar, but Vishnu, who had gone in the direction of the base of the pillar, admitted that he had not. Shiva then appeared as a second Jyotirlinga and cursed Brahma, telling him that he would have no place in the ceremonies, though Vishnu would be worshipped until the ‘end of eternity’. The Jyotirlinga is the supreme indivisible reality from which Shiva appears.

It is believed that there were originally 64 Jyotirlingas of which 12 survives to this day and is considered to be especially auspicious and holy. Each of the twelve sites takes the name of the presiding deity and each is considered a separate manifestation of Shiva. At all these sites, the primary deity is a lingam representing the beginning less and endless Stambha or pillar, symbolizing the Shiva’s infinite nature. The twelve Jyotirlinga are Somnath in Gujarat,  Mallikarjuna  at  Srisailam  in  Andhra Pradesh, Mahakaleswar at Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, Omkareshwar in Madhya Pradesh,  Kedarnath  in  Himalayas,  Bhimashankar  in  Maharashtra,  Viswanath  at  Varanasi  in Uttar Pradesh, Triambakeshwar in Maharashtra, Vaidyanath at Deoghar in Jharkhand, Nageshvara Jyotirlinga in Gujarat,  Rameshwar at Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu and Grishneshwar  at  Aurangabad in Maharashtra.

Ravi and I roamed around the temple complex while the ladies went inside the temple meet Lord Shiva in his Nageshvara form. There was this Tattoo artist from whom a variety of people were getting inked. He had both option of permanent marking as well as a temporary one that will last for about 3 to 7 days if one can avoid bathing! I was tempted for the latter one but restrained myself.

It was only 1300 hours when we left Nageshvara for the hotel. There was enough time to visit the Marine Park and that was where we intended to go after a quick lunch at the hotel.

Marine National Park in the Gulf of Kutch is situated on the southern shore of the Gulf of Kachh in the Jamnagar District of Gujarat state, India. In 1980, an area of 270 sqkm from Okha to Jodiya was declared Marine Sanctuary. Later, in 1982, a core area of 110 sqkm was declared Marine National Park under the provisions of the Wildlife (protection) Act, 1972 of India. It is the first national marine park of India. There are 42 islands on the Jamnagar coast in the Marine National Park, most of them surrounded by reefs. The best known island is Pirotan.

The fauna found here include 70 species of Sponges, 52 species Coral including 42 species of hard coral and 10 species of soft coral. Jellyfish, Portuguese Man-of-War and Sea Anemones and other Coelenterates. Arthropods include 27 species of prawns, 30 species of crabs, lobsters, shrimps and other crustaceans. Molluscs like pearl oysters and sea slugs are present. Octopuses which change colour are also found. Echinoderms like starfish, sea cucumbers and sea urchins are present. The fishes found are puffer fishes, sea horse, stingray, mudskippers and whale sharks which are an endangered species. Endangered sea turtles such as green sea turtles, olive ridleys and leatherbacks are seen here. There are three species of sea snakes. There are dugongs and smaller cetaceans like finless porpoises, common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins and Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins.  There are 42 islands in the Arabian Sea with coral reefs and the park is situated in one of those.

It took us 2:30 hours from Dwarka to cover 130 to the Marine Park. There is an entry fee of Rs.50/- per person and guide (compulsory) fee of Rs.300/- although there is no one to check the tickets. The first person we encountered there was the Shoe Man; he suggested that we change into the assorted shoes that’s available with him instead of spoiling our own shoes. Ravi Bhaiya and Seema Bhabi were reluctant to wear those worn out shoes but I convinced them of the utility which they later acknowledged once inside the park.

The Marine Park is just like the Forest National Parks, only here it is sea and one walks in the sea itself when it is low tide. The concept being that when the sea water recedes, some of the creatures mentioned earlier are left behind but alive in shallow water. Now these marine creatures have natural camouflage ability and only an expert guide can locate them under a foot of sea water. We were happy that our guide was a seasoned one having been there since 1992. He showed us many marine lives both flora and fauna including different kinds of corals, algae as well as crabs, starfish, sea cucumber, flower fish, octopus and puffer fish. We also had a glimpse of mudskippers. Deepika got really excited when the guide picked up two infant octopuses and placed them on her palm. And Ravi Bhaiya revisited his teenage years holding the puffer fish (locally called Dhongi Machhli) and when the guide placed the Bush Crab (nicknamed Anil Kapur for apparent reason!!).

We did not realise but we had actually walked at least 4-5 km in the sea itself and time was around 1630 hours when the guide advised that we should start our walk back as in a couple of hours the high tide will inundate the area where we were walking.

We returned to our hotel and realised that the walking in the knee deep sea water has resulted in stiffness of the calf area of both legs which would go away in a few days. The experience called for a wet celebration but being in a dry state that was not to be! We decided to have our dinner early and call it a day as we plan to move to our next destination Somnath early morning.

February 07, 2016

We were the first guests at the breakfast room at 7 in the morning and left for Somnath via Dwarkadhish for one last meeting at 0730 hours.

On our way, we visited Gandhiji’s birth place Porbandar and saw the room where he was born. There is a small museum with lots of photographs and other artifacts that tell you stories of our freedom movement. There was one particular photo that attracted my attention not because of the image but the caption that said “Gandhiji, in a thoughtful relexing posture while going to Delhi in a third class Railway compartment”. Wish someone had an eye for spellings before putting it up.

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One thing that was missing at the birth home of Gandhiji was a Khadi Shop, which is MUST at almost all the places that has a link to Gandhiji, especially the Gandhi Smarak, Gandhi Smriti etc.

We continued our journey to Somnath and reached there around 1530 hours and checked in to Ferns Residency, a new hotel that has come up about six months back. As usual, the main kitchen at had closed and only snacks were available. We settled for sandwiches and assorted pakodas. And yes, they also had Biryani (veg) to offer. Food was good and we gorged them down with lemon sodas. After a short rest we were out again for our last leg of pilgrimage.

The Somnath temple located in Prabhas Patan near Veraval in Saurashtra on the western coast of Gujarat, India, is the first among the twelve Jyotirlingas shrines of Shiva. It is an important pilgrimage and tourist spot. The temple is considered sacred due to the various legends connected to it. Somnath means “Lord of the Soma”, an epithet of Shiva. Somnath Temple is known as “the Shrine Eternal”. This legendary temple has been destroyed and rebuilt several times by Islamic kings and Hindu kings respectively. Most recently it was rebuilt in November 1947, when Vallabhbhai Patel visited the area for the integration of Junagadh and mooted a plan for restoration. After Patel’s death, the rebuilding continued under Kanaiyalal Maneklal Munshi, a minister in the Government of India. The temple is open daily from 6AM to 9PM. There are 3 aarti daily; in the morning at 07:00, at 12:00 and in the evening at 19:00. It is also believed that this is the place where Krishna ended his Lila on earth and left for his heavenly abode.  

The site of Somnath has been a pilgrimage site from ancient times on account of being a triveni sangam (the joining of three rivers — Kapila, Hiran and the mythical Sarasvati River). Soma, the Moon god, is believed to have lost his lustre due to a curse, and he bathed in the Sarasvati River at this site to regain it. The result is the waxing and waning of the moon, no doubt an allusion to the waxing and waning of the tides at this sea shore location. The name of the town Prabhas, meaning lustre, as well as the alternative names Someshvar and Somanath (“lord of the moon” or “moon god”) arise from this tradition.  

 The first Siva temple at Somanath is believed to have been built at some unknown time in the past. The second temple was said to be built at the same site by the Seuna kings of Vallabhi around 649 CE. In 725 CE, Al-Junayd, the Arab governor of Sindh is said to have destroyed the second temple as part of his invasions of Gujarat and Rajasthan. The Gurjara-Pratihara king Nagabhata II is said to have constructed the third temple in 815 CE, a large structure of red sandstone.

In 1024, during the reign of Bhimdev I, the prominent Afghan ruler Mahmud of Ghazni raided Gujarat, plundering the Somnath temple and breaking its Jyotirlinga. He took away a booty of 2 crore dinars. Historians expect the damage to the temple to have been minimal because there are records to pilgrimages to the temple in 1038, which make no mention of any damage to the temple. In 1299, Alauddin Khilji’s army under the leadership of Ulugh Khan defeated Karandev II of the Vaghela dynasty, and sacked the Somnath temple. According to Taj-ul-Ma’sir of Hasan Nizami, the Sultan boasted that “fifty thousand infidels were dispatched to hell by the sword” and “more than twenty thousand slaves, and cattle beyond all calculation fell into the hands of the victors. The temple was rebuilt by Mahipala Deva, the Chudasama king of Saurashtra in 1308 and the Linga was installed by his son Khengar sometime between 1326 and 1351. In 1395, the temple was destroyed for the third time by Zafar Khan, the last governor of Gujarat under the Delhi Sultanate. In 1451, it was desecrated by Mahmud Begada, the Sultan of Gujarat. By 1665, the temple, one of many, was once again ordered destroyed by  Mughal  emperor  Aurangzeb. In 1702, he ordered that if Hindus had revived worship there, it should be demolished completely. Later the temple was rebuilt to its same glory adjacent to the ruined one. Later on a joint effort of Peshwa of Pune, Raja Bhonsle of Nagpur, Chhatrapati Bhonsle of Kolhapur, Queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore & Shrimant Patilbuwa Shinde of Gwalior rebuilt the temple in 1783 at a site adjacent to the ruined temple.

In 1782-83 AD, Maratha king Mahadaji Shinde, victoriously brought the Three Silver Gates from Lahore after defeating Muhammad Shah of Lahore. After refusal from Pundits of Guzrath and the then ruler Gaekwad to put them back on Somnath temple, these silver gates were placed in the temples of Ujjain. Today they can be seen in two temples of India, Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga  and Gopal Mandir of Ujjain.

In 1842, Edward Law, 1st Earl of Ellenborough issued his famous Proclamation of the Gates, in which he ordered the British army in Afghanistan to return via Ghazni and bring back to India the sandalwood gates from the tomb of Mahmud of Ghazni in Ghazni, Afghanistan. These were believed to have been taken by Mahmud from Somnath. There was a debate in the House of Commons in London in 1843 on the question of the gates of the Somanatha temple. After much crossfire between the British Government and the opposition, the gates were uprooted and brought back in triumph. But on arrival, they were found to be replicas of the original. They were placed in a store-room in the Agra Fort where they still lie to the present day.

The present temple is built in the Chalukya style of temple architecture or “Kailash Mahameru Prasad” style and reflects the skill of the Sompura Salats, one of Gujarat’s master masons. The temple’s śikhara, or main spire, is 15 meters in height, and it has an 8.2-metre tall flag pole at the top. The temple is situated at such a place that there is no land in a straight line between Somnath seashore until Antarctica, such an inscription in Sanskrit is found on the Bāṇastambha or “Arrow Pillar” erected on the sea-protection wall. The Bāṇastambha mentions that it stands at a point on the Indian landmass that is the first point on land in the north to the South Pole at that particular longitude.

When we reached the Somnath temple it was too early for the aarti, so went to see Valka Tirth. This is where Krishna breathed his last after being hit by an arrow of a hunter who thought the moving feet of Krishna as the ears of a deer. The place was supposed to have lot foliage and water body, just as was narrated in the books of Mahabharata but we were shocked to construction happening for a grand Mandir of Krishna with due consideration of commerce as well.

We proceeded for Somnath and were very excited having heard so much about it. I was particularly elated with the thought of taking the picture of the temple with the setting sun in the background. But the temple authorities pricked the balloon of my desire, big signages informed the visitor that camera, mobile phones, leather belts and carry bags among many other things cannot be taken inside the perimeter of the temple. I felt cheated but abided by the dictate.

The temple perimeter is quite large with the outer part tiled and areas marked for keeping your shoes and benches for resting. The inner perimeter has well manicured grass lawns and excellent view of the never ending sea. There is an amphitheatre where a sound-n-light show happens every day at 2000 hours. Inside the temple, there was large crowd moving slowly but steadily in the direction of the Shiva Lingam. We joined the queue, and continued to admire the architecture.

I had read somewhere that the original Lingam was levitated and did not touch the base plate but nothing of that kind of miracle here. This was ornamented Lingam, quite big in size. The usual Pandits offered tilak to all the pilgrims as they approach the Sanctum Santorum duly protected by a brass railing.

After the darshan, Ravi and I came out from the men’s section, meanwhile, lead by Seema Bhabi, the ladies had gone back again to witness the evening aarti. I had no interest and grudgingly roamed the lawns and taking in the vastness of the ocean.

We decided to watch the sound-n-light show hoping it would be as fascinating as the one we had seen at Khajuraho. It started off well with narration of mythical stories but then lost the plot completely. I am sure there is lot of content available on the history of the temple, in addition to the fictional tales that are in abundance, it required some creative story telling effort. It was disappointing experience.

February 08, 2016

The pilgrim’s tour had ended and we left for Jamnagar Airport early in the morning after breakfast. We had a flight to catch at 1330 hours; in fact this was the only flight in the entire day for Mumbai. And from there the connecting flight at 1600 hours to Delhi. We reached Jamnagar around 1130 hours and once again the ladies wanted to buy something more. I kept up the pressure to hurry up I had no intention of staying another night in the dry state, if we miss the flight.

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We finally reached the airport and realized that the flight is delayed after our security check. It is the same one on which we had come three days ago, it was late again. We took off finally at 1430 hours hoping to catch the connecting Delhi flight. It was not to be as we landed in Mumbai’s Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (T2) at exactly 1600 hours.

It seemed that AI was very much aware of the delays or “never on time” of their flight # AI648 JGA-BOM, so they immediately arranged for our revised boarding cards for the next available flight at 1700 hours which took off only at 1745 hours. We landed in Delhi around 2000 hours finally ending our pilgrim tour.

Om Namah Narayana, Om Shivay Namah.  

Secularism – In Indian Context

A very crisp definition of DHARMA is THE PATH OF RIGHTEOUSNESS.

Whereas ADHARMA is all that is AGAINST NATURE, IMMORAL, UNETHICAL, WRONG or UNLAWFUL

Recently when the Home Minister Shri Rajnath Singh said that Secularism is the most misused word in the country…This must stop. Because of the rampant misuse of the word, there have been instances of tension in society”, he was not only right but perhaps the first one to nail it.

 India’s constitution came into being on 26th November 1949, after nearly 3 years of discussions. Dr. B R Ambedkar deserves full credit for drafting a progressive constitution that brought an ancient civilization into the modern world with the stroke of a pen. Of the 389 members in the constituent assembly, 208 belonged to the Congress, 73 to the Muslim League, 93 to princely states and the remaining 15 to other political formations. Muslim Leaguers obviously quit the constituent assembly once Pakistan came into being, leaving the Congress Party in an overwhelming majority in the assembly, hence removing the possibility for diametrically opposite political views to be present in the assembly. The constitution of India is one of world’s most amended, having been amended roughly thrice in every two year’s duration. The words secularism and socialism were added to the Preamble of the constitution through an amendment process in 1976, at the height of Indira Gandhi’s emergency. This is not to say that Ambedkar or other makers of our constitution intended India to be a theocracy of any sort. However, it was this introduction of Secularism in the preamble that has proved to be controversial in India’s political discourse.

Let us examine the theory of Secularism and its origin.

 One must understand the origins of the word secularism and its relevance in the Indian civilization to discuss this issue better. The term secularism arose in European politics in the aftermath of the French revolution that sought to undo the powers of the church and replace them with the powers of the state. In simple terms, Secularism became the war cry for separation of church and state. In medieval Europe, Church was an all powerful institution that possessed land, maintained armies, levied taxes and could throne and dethrone Kings. Secularization was an attempt to break the power of the church and create an alternate power centre in the form of the state. Europe went through a catastrophic process of wars and wanton violence to replace the power of the church. In India, there was hardly any institution that could mirror the power of the church. During the medieval ages, India was ruled by invaders and while the majority of the population might have looked towards local priests or god-men, there was no single entrenched religious structure that towered over them. Added to this was the inherent Indian tolerance for foreigners with varied beliefs and ideologies, which made it very difficult for a single orthodox interpretation of Hinduism to persist. It is probably because of this that India tends to be very confused as far as the terminology of secularism is concerned.

France was one of world’s first secular countries. It enforced Secularism after the French revolution, when it drowned priests in the middle of the ocean, in a rite known as Noyades de Nantes. This was the French way at curbing the church. As early as 1905, France established Laïcité whereby there is absence of religious involvement in government affairs. It especially prohibits religious influence in the determination of state policies. It is because of this policy that France is able to ban religious symbols such as Naqab or Burqa, Skull cap, Christian crosses etc. with relative ease as individuals must appear as simple citizens in public sphere, as opposed to what they do in their private lives. Another example of a Secular state in Turkey that in 1924 abolished the Caliphate and ushered in an era of secularism that continued till almost 2000s when an Islamic party took power. Even now, Turkey is still officially a secular state. Islam, which is the largest religion, is controlled by the state to the extent that Friday sermons have to be state approved. Bans similar to France in terms of open public expression of religious symbols are still in place. Contrast this form of secularism with the one practised in the United States. In the US, the constitution bans governmental interference with the free exercise of religion and at the same time disallows the declaration of a State religion. The Indian form of secularism mirrors the US variant closely in practice. However, the historical context which led to the establishment of secularism (many of the first settlers in the US were victims of religious intolerance in Europe) was missing in India. The western world, in general gravitated towards being irreligious, at least publicly, as a means of undermining the church. Being irreligious eventually became a higher order virtue in Western society.

Coming back to India, there is a difference between being Atheistic and Irreligious in the Indian context. Indic terms will convey this sentiment better. As a person, I may choose to be Panthnirpeksh (free from any sect), but I would not want to be Adharmi. The concept of Dharma in Indic religions is vastly different from what religion means in the Western world. This is where the first discrepancy between Indian secularism and secularism worldwide lies. This is what Rajnath Singh spoke of, when he said the correct translation of Secularism should be Panthnirpeksh (Free from a panth) and not Dharmnirpeksh (Free from Dharma). That he was still booed down is another matter. The bigger problem however is that in India secularism has been reduced to pandering the needs of vote banks. In line with this ideology, majority religion must be limited and curtailed, while minority religions should be appeased at all times as they provide lucrative vote banks. Theoretically speaking, there is nothing wrong with the Indian variant of secularism (except for the Dharmnirpeksh part), but it is the practice of Secularism that has been prostituted to meet electoral requirements. Successive governments (mainly Congress and/or Congress supported) of the day has for years now pandered to vote bank politics. It has used the flag of secularism to indulge in scare mongering among minorities. There lies a very powerful lobby of intellectuals that has been fed and inculcated for decades to sing along these lines, the song of secularism that is not.

If we look at the Indian history, we know that India was never one single country but federation of smaller kingdoms. Chandragupta Maurya & later Ashoka were the ones that brought large tracts of the country under one umbrella kingdom but never the whole geographical land. Even under British rule, India was never one country with small kingdoms and other European settlements scattered all over the geography of the country (see maps).

Under such a scenario, there was never one philosophy that could enjoy the similar power that the Churches in Europe enjoyed in the medieval period.  The Secularism has been an inherent feature in the deep philosophies that shaped the modern India. We have, if not with open arms, but peacefully accepted all faiths into our folds, made them part of our socio-cultural life. This is one land where not one or two but a number of philosophies viz. Buddhism, Jainism, Zoroastrian, Sikhism, Islam and Christianity has not only survived but thrived through the centuries. We are as individuals or group very much tolerant and secular in our outlook without the politicians shouting it out at us at the drop of a hat.

Jai Hind.